Costuming My Bliss

Bias strips for trim are cut.  I used a wave blade rotary cutter for this task.  Typically, I hate rotary cutters, and I suck at using them.  But this went well.  Because I also hate the dreaded omnigrid ruler, (too many lines cause my poor brain to melt)I marked all the lines and then very slowly and careful, ran the cutter over said lines.  Worked rather well, now I just have to sew the bazillion little strips into one long strip to be ruched and applied.

Here are the trim tests. 

I had originally envisioned the pink "fun fur" yarn to fill the roll of fly fringe, but I think it's just too fuzzy for my 1" strips.  So now I'm thinking I'll just go with the strait black.  Or, I may add a very narrow pink ribbon to the center.......

Ahem.  Was bad and picked up a book, which turned into two, which translates into me not sewing a stitch.  So, to rectify this problem, I've set myself a deadline of Valentine's day.  I work better under pressure.

I've managed to get it to the near done stage, so this is good!  

                                              Front

                                             Side

I want to tack down the bottom of the pleats to give it a more fitted look.

                                                 Back

                                         Lining Back

In order to eliminate bulk, I cut a big chunk out of the back, from neck to waist.  I then put in pleats just at the waist, so I would have the fullness needed in the skirt.

After getting all the pieces stitched up in both the fashion and lining fabrics, I sewed them together down the front, and overcast the armscye.  (more on that when we get to the sleeves.)

                                         Front lapel 

Because there's no illustration of the front, I've had to use my imagination, along with what I can glean from the patten shape.  I know that the front crosses over, and I know that the only closure is the belt.  So that would suggest a lapel.  Of course, I wanted mine to be pink!

On to the to do list:

• Make new sleeve.  The old one is looking a bit leg o' muttoney for my taste.
• Make bias trim
• Bind neckline
• Sew down hem facing
• Deal with lining hem
• Make belt
• Tack down pleats

Doable, if I work on it each night.

The sleeve has been drafted.  I used Klemm's draft for a 2 piece coat sleeve from 1878.  Yes, it's a decade later than the paletot, but the shape for this particular sleeve, is exactly the same. 

Due to the fact that Victorian ladies were not equipped with long monkey arms like mine, I had to add 4".

Tomorrow I'll cut one out and see how it fits.  

I picked up some black velveteen yeasterday, and went digging through the stash for the lining fabric.  Turns out I don't have enough of the fun pink stars, so I'll have to make yet another trip for something else.  Sad.  I really wanted those totaly non-period stars.  

Over the last couple of days I've managed to make significant progress!  Through a combination of drafting, draping, and flat pattern, I was able to get a working pattern made.  (sans sleeve)

I went to cut it out, only to find  I didn't have enough muslin to cut it out.  So I dug into the stash and found the remains of the grape fabric I used for the roped petticoat for the Venetian.  I cut that out and stitched up a muslin-that isn't-a muslin.

                                            Front
                                                Back

After taking loads of pics, I realized I forgot to sew up the fish eye darts in the front.  Dhoh!  Back to sewing machine, and more pics.

                      I much prefer the fit with the darts.  

   And the back.  I'm in love with the Watteau pleats!

And here's the back, pinned up to get a feel for what it'll look like if I decide to add the loops for bustling.   

So far, I'm really liking the way it fits.  The only place I'm to to sure about is the back armscye.  It may be a little wide.  I'll decide what to do about it once I get the sleeve drafted and mocked up.

To get done this weekend: Sleeve drafted and mocked up!!  If that goes well (fingers crossed) I'd like to get the final version cut out.